Hey guys,
I need advice on the best metal 3d printer to get. I have never owned one before. Can someone tell me an ideal printer for me? Give me one with unlimited budget and one under 1000. I am on both windows and MacBook Pro user.
Thanks

https://link.springer.com/article/10.100...20-06071-6

I guess I'll start with saying, I enjoyed what Metal Matters has done so far. Certainly out of my league. I really like the idea of a truly cost effective metal 3D printer, something that an average maker could have the possibility of saving up for. Now, for the reason I am making this thread. I had been assigned a little while back to do some research into a metal 3D printer for a company I work for, more or less window shopping, seeing what was out there. I came across one that I found incredibly intriguing and it uses what is called Jet Binding. So that is what this is about.

A Jet Binder metal 3D printer sprays a material, like a glue, into a metal powder allowing a shape to be formed layer by layer. It also uses something similar to, well, an inkjet printer head to do so. It is then sintered afterwards, but for a home use metal 3D printer, I feel like that is a compromise that can be made. The printer would probably start out with the same dual piston set up that is used in the Metal Matters 3D printer and a gantry. The jet system, for the nozzle, might be able to be a inkjet nozzle from an inkjet printer. If this is what would be used, a solution with a relatively low evaporation point would also need to be used (since inkjets heat up the liquid in a little pocket to cause it to expand and be pushed out of a hole). I am not completely sure how it is done in the actual jet binder printers but I think it may not work like this, rather, it may have some sort of micro solenoid system of some kind instead, just because of the limitations that heating the glue might bring. Anyways, about the solution, my idea is to use some polymer clay (PVC clay) as the "glue", I can suspend it in a solution of alcohol and call it good. However, that seems harder to do and I initially believed for several reasons. First, its actually kind of hard to break the clay down in alcohol as it does not dissolve as well in alcohol as it does in water. (PS, to why I am not using water, it should be obvious, it would oxidize basically any material used, that and, it does not evaporate as easily as alcohol which is important). I still want to use an alcohol based solution in the end, unless someone else has a better idea. More recently, I've been looking into ways that I could monomerize it, or at least break it down into shorter strands. So far, the only thing I can think of is maybe running some current through a solution of salt water and the clay, evaporating off the water and then adding it to alcohol, I have not done it yet but its on my to do list. Well, I think that is really all I have to say atm, I would love some feedback, suggestion, and even help if anyone would like to provide some.

On behalf of

(12-28-2021, 11:50 AM)BOdrOFF Wrote: From Russia with love. Working off SLS technology to build an SLM 3d printer

Good afternoon, I think it is clear to everyone that I am writing from Russia. I speak English at primary school level, so I do everything through an interpreter.

I have my own workshop, where the centrepiece is a CNC milling machine. I carry out private orders. At the end of last summer I bought an FDM 3D printer and remembered how easy it is to operate compared to milling.

I wanted to buy one, but prices haven't dropped in 10 years. So the next task is to build one myself.
The first goal is an SLS (plastic) printer, to work out the technology.
I have no problems with mechanics. As for the electrics, I can only program them and connect them according to a manual, so I found a colleague who understands laser control. Who understands lasers, galvanometers and programs for all these electronics.
At the moment I am in the process of purchasing everything I need for the project and designing the frame (in its initial state)
1. A 6W diode laser (a local craftsman puts American made diodes in cheap Chinese boxes and doesn't lie about its wattage like the Chinese do) - ordered.
2. Mechanics
Motors and drivers available
The frame of the machine is in development
Heating element with temperature control board available
Argon gas cylinder and reducer not ordered
Frame and cabinet parts not ordered
3. Galvanometers and board available. Firmware in progress.

   

Video will not shoot, except for short and only with the process of the equipment. Information about the process will be posted here.

Добрый день, думаю всем понятно что пишу из России. Владею Английским на уровне начальной школы, так что всё провожу через переводчик.

У меня своя мастерская, где центральное место занимает фрезерный ЧПУ станок. Выполняю частные заказы. В конце прошлого лета приобрёл FDM 3D принтер и вспомнил насколько просто им управлять по сравнению с фрезерной обработкой.

Задался целью приобрести, но цены на них за 10 лет так и не упали. Так что следующая задача собрать самому.
Первая цель - SLS (пластик) принтер, для отработки технологий.
С механикой у меня проблем нет. А вот электрику запрограммировать и подключить могу только по инструкции, так что нашёл себе коллегу. Который понимает в управлении лазерами, гальванометрами и программами для всей этой электроники.
На настоящий момент происходит процесс приобретения всего нужного для проекта и проектирование рамы (в начальном состоянии)
1. Диодный лазер 6W (местный мастер ставит в дешёвые китайские блоки нормальные диоды американского производства, и не врёт как китайцы о его мощности) - заказан.
2. Механика
Двигатели с драйверами в наличии
Рама станка в разработке
Нагревательный элемент с платой контроля температуры в наличии
Балон с аргоном и редуктор к нему не заказан
детали рамы и кабинета не заказаны
3. Гальванометры и плата к ним в наличии. Прошивка в разработке.

Видео снимать не будем, разве что коротки и лишь с процессом работы оборудования. Информацию о процессе буду афишировать здесь.

Perhaps you can straighten it first with something simple, like this.   They come in Nylon too.  Or, the same, but with roller bearings for less friction, know as a roller straightener.

As per the last post in the SLM thread I discussed the Laser Metal Wire Deposition (LMWD) system I have been working on. I've since moved the laser head over to a new platform (actually the old i3 frame from some of my earlier videos) which will serve as the basis for this process. I'm hoping to keep this as an i3 based platform as it very closely resembles FDM, lowering the barriers of cost and complexity.



One of the major issues that still isn't entirely resolved is the wire feeding mechanism. I ended up redesigning the wire feeder to use two roller bearings centered around a single drive wheel, now lined with PE foam to better accommodate 0.1mm wire and permit slip if any obstructions should occur. Despite doubling the friction this only produced more issues as the wire no longer followed a straight path. Instead, if the wire were to jam downstream it would quickly leave the center line of the rollers and tangle itself instead of slipping against the foam.



I had to revert to using the original design but this time with a couple tweaks. I kept the PE foam on the drive wheel as this allowed the 0.1mm wire to be used and provided slip when necessary with the larger 0.25mm wire. The wire guides / PTFE mount are now part of the tensioner arm as this provides a straight path for the wire to follow, allowing the drive wheel to slip without disrupting the wire, making jams far less frequent. For now the performance is adequate.

I still need to think of a way of reducing the wire curl as it comes off the spool. The syringe I'm now using is 23G (vs 21G previously) and provides a tighter clearance but doesn't overcome this issue. Unfortunately there needs to be enough clearance so that the wire can move freely and this permits some wire curling and therefore some inconsistency in the delivery of wire. This is specifically the case when using 0.25mm wire (23G syringe ~ ID 0.3mm), 0.1mm wire doesn't suffer this issue as it is soft but requires an even finer syringe which I do not currently have on hand. The 0.25mm wire is classified as "hard" so I may try using a soft variant with the hope that it is less prone to curling. I suspect that this will be the case but will pose other problems e.g. collapsing at the inlet of the PTFE tube.

I am trying to obtain a laser able to burn small plants (or very small plants) at a distance of about 0.75M . will be a scanning device to kill weeds.

I found the nubm31 could be interesting but unsure if it can focus enough. I am expecting a dot 1x1mm or at least 2x6mm at 0.75M distance.

Looks like nobody did try to focus at this distance. So I am pretty unsure if it is feasible.

but considering this I suppose it should be possible :

-Junkers wrote it's possible to focus nubm31 a dot 0.6mm with a 60mm lens and a 60mm focus.

-BrilliantLasers shows a picture of the oval dot he obtained at  5m that looks like to be 1x3cm https://laserpointerforums.com/threads/n...29/page-20


My question is : what do you think about it ? possible or not ? and how ?   beam expander + focusing lens ?

only focusing lens ? using aspherical convergent lens +2 ?

Any way to get notifications for new threads or posts?  I subscribed to all of the forums but I'm not getting any notifications sent to my email address.

Hi all, sorry or the late reply, but I want to keep my promise to start some topics about working safely with metal powders and printers, to support this project. 
Please add more info if you have some, or correct me when I'm wrong. 

Although most metal powders have a particle size between 10 and 100 microns, there are often some smaller (submicron) particles present. 
This amount increases when you reuse powder, due to soot particles falling down on the powderbed. Especially the soot particles, condensed from the vaporized metals from the melt pool, are small enough to stay airborne and enter your bloodstream through your skin, or mucous membranes. So always wear skin and respiratory protection and never touch your nose or eyes when working with powders.       

Respirators:
Here in Europe are different performance classes for particle filtering. FFP1, FFP2 and FFP3, with FFP3 having the best performance. There are also full face masks, but I could not find if these have different classifications. 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FFP_standards

The mask must cover your mouth and nose and seal all around against your skin, to prevent inleak. You might have to try a few brands before you find one that seals well and is comfortable to use for a longer time. Some masks also filter volatile chemicals. which is useful if you often use Isopropylalcohol for cleaning. I myself use 3M masks, type 4255 and 4277. 

Gloves:
Always wear disposable gloves, to protect your skin. Preferable talcum free, to prevent contaminating your metal powders.
The gloves can be made from different material like Vinyl, Layer or Nitrile. You don't need a high chemical resistance, but they should be cut and puncture resistant. For this, the Nitrile gloves are most suitable.           

Overgarments:
For this I'm really curious what overgarments others use. 
We only use lab coats that are washed once a week. But I have my doubts how well it prevents powder from entering your own clothes. Some disposable coverall which is used for working with asbestos seems to me a much better option, but with €5-10 each, it does not seem a good option for DIY applications. 
We have no special covers for our shoes, but we do use Tacky mats to stop powder on the ground from spreading through the area. 

Safety goggles and Shoes:
Your standard ones.